Gazala's Place

That flour-dusted rolling pin in the window of Gazala's Place isn't there just for show. Gazala Halabi, the Israeli owner-chef of this week-old Mediterranean eatery, is constantly rolling out crepe-thin, whole wheat pita. She's a woman with a very important mission: to show us exactly how delicious homemade Druze-Israeli cuisine can be! Judging from my meal today, she's accomplishing her goal.

Her menu features appetizers like cegar (a rolled pita shell stuffed with spiced mashed potatoes or meat), homemade grape leaves, olive oil goat cheese spread, hummus, cucumber soup, and several salads and sandwiches. There are meat, cheese and spinach pies, and for those craving a heartier meal, there are chicken and lamb kebab platters.

Since I hadn't eaten yet, I decided to go with the brunch special: a glass of rosewater tamarind drink, fluffy scrambled eggs, a mound of nutty hummus indented with a little pool of olive oil, the aforementioned whole wheat pita ("Can I have some more?" I asked), green olives, and green salad topped with tabouli and ripe red tomatoes. While I polished this off, I discussed dessert with Gazala. Date-stuffed semolina cakes? Kenafi? She packed me up a bag of cakes and some osh al-saraia ("It's halfway between sweetened cheese and cream," she explained).

I left with a full stomach, a bag full of desserts and a full heart! Lovingly prepared food has that effect.

Go visit Gazala at Gazala's Place: 709 9th Ave. (212) 245-0709.